Designing the Orchard Layout

In this stage, the horticulturist takes on the role of an architect, much like when planning a city. Based on the soil conditions and available space, it is advisable to design pathways wide enough to accommodate a wheelbarrow without damaging branches or stems. These main paths will serve as the primary arteries from which smaller paths branch out, delineating cultivated sections and ensuring accessibility across the entire garden.

To mark these paths, wooden stakes tied with string should be placed at designated points. Once marked, the area can be leveled using a rake. For vegetables requiring deep planting, furrows or ditches must be drawn to accommodate the seeds. Even if furrows are not necessary, marking straight lines with string helps guide planting and ensures proper spacing. Each furrow should be positioned to allow sufficient space for plants to grow without obstructing pathways. A good practice is to allocate only two furrows per guide string to maintain accessibility. Furrows are created by lightly embedding the hoe blade into the soil and dragging it along the marked line.

Soil Preparation and Digging

The first essential task in garden preparation is digging. This begins with creating a furrow of equal depth and length to the hoe, piling the removed soil to the side. At the base of the furrow, manure and mulch should be generously spread before digging a parallel furrow. The displaced soil from the second furrow is then used to fill the first. This process is repeated to create successive furrows, simultaneously incorporating soil amendments. For example, lime can be added to acidic soil, while sand improves drainage in clay-rich soil.

Orchard Layout Options: Rows vs. Raised Beds

Soil Cultivation

For optimal germination and microorganism activity, the soil should be loose, crumbly, and sufficiently moist. This condition is achieved through deep tilling, which aerates the soil. However, it is beneficial to delay sowing immediately after tilling to allow the soil to settle into ideal conditions. The recommended soil-breaking schedule varies by season:

• Autumn to early winter: Breaking up clumps allows the soil to retain moisture and facilitates weed control.
• Late winter to early spring: If sowing will occur within one to two months, clod removal is beneficial. However, if sowing is immediate, it is best to leave the clods intact.
• Late spring to summer: Soil should be tilled without disturbing clods.

Soil breaking can be done using a hoe, a four-pronged fork, a mechanical hoe, or a motorized cultivator. The latter options provide a more uniform result.

Tillage and Plowing

Tillage involves deeper soil excavation than standard tilling. If a tractor is available, the task becomes significantly easier. Plowing brings deep soil layers to the surface, exposing them to sunlight and improving fertility. This process should be conducted annually, either in autumn or spring.

• Autumn plowing: This disrupts compacted soil, creating clods that are broken down by winter frost, improving aeration and nutrient circulation.
• Spring plowing: This prepares the soil for additional fertilization before planting.

Raking and Weed Control

After plowing, raking levels the soil and covers seeds. In small orchards, a four-pronged fork suffices, while larger plots require a rake. Weed control is essential, as weeds compete with crops for nutrients, air, and light. They can be removed manually using tools like a hoe, scraper, or weeder. While chemical herbicides are an option, they should be avoided when possible to prevent damage to vegetables.

Weeding and Soil Maintenance

To prevent soil crusting and excessive water loss through evaporation, regular weeding is necessary. This can be done using a hoe or weeder to keep the soil loose and aerated.

Sowing Techniques

Seed germination depends on factors such as aeration, temperature, humidity, and environmental conditions. Some plants can be directly sown in their final growing location, while others require controlled conditions for germination. Sowing can be performed in various ways:

• Seedbeds: Seeds are sown in protected containers, often covered with plastic to shield them from rain and wind.
• Direct soil planting: The soil is leveled and furrows, spaced 10–15 cm apart, are moistened before seeds are scattered and lightly covered with a mix of peat and sand.
• Shaded sowing: During summer, a thin net is used to provide shade.

The main sowing methods include:

• Row planting: Seeds are placed at regular intervals in a furrow and covered with soil.
• Hole planting: Groups of three to six seeds are planted in pre-dug holes, with spacing depending on the vegetable type (e.g., chard, beets, pumpkins, zucchini, beans, cucumbers).
• Broadcast sowing: Seeds are scattered freely, mainly for crops like watercress, radishes, turnips, and lettuce.
• Finger sowing: Seeds are pressed into the soil before covering (suitable for cucumbers, turnips, melons).
• Vegetative propagation: Some crops, such as potatoes, garlic, rosemary, sage, and strawberries, are propagated using cuttings, tubers, or bulbs from a selected mother plant.

Specialized Sowing Methods

• Hotbeds: Raised wooden, brick, or cement boxes filled with manure and mulch generate heat for seed germination. This technique is used to start seedlings in colder months.

  • January: Chicory, cabbage, carrots, lettuce, radishes, leeks.
  • February: Peppers, eggplants, and January crops.
  • March: Melons, tomatoes, celery, cucumbers.

• Pot Sowing: Clay or peat pots are used, with two or three seeds per pot.

  • March: Cabbage, tomatoes, celery, eggplant.
  • April: Pumpkins, zucchini, thistle, melon, cucumber.

By following these methods, the orchard will be efficiently structured, ensuring optimal plant growth and accessibility while maintaining soil health and fertility.