Irigation and Crop Rotation

Seeds can only germinate in a moist environment, and roots absorb essential nutrients when dissolved in water. Unless the season is particularly rainy, watering is the first and foremost task for any horticulturist who has sown or planted. This practice is especially crucial for transplanted vegetables or those that have suffered root damage, as they may struggle to adapt to their new environment.

After planting or transplanting, water the soil at the base of the plant while keeping the aerial parts dry. This is particularly important when plants are not yet deep enough to access moisture naturally. Ideally, watering should be done in the morning and late afternoon. If using a hose, opt for a spray or "rain" setting to reduce water pressure, as a strong jet can compact the soil and make it less permeable to air. In the absence of proper irrigation tools, small seed containers can be watered using a bottle with several small holes punched in its cap. Avoid watering in direct sunlight during hot weather to prevent rapid evaporation and potential plant damage.

In addition to traditional sprinklers, various irrigation systems are available, such as coiled hoses, rotary sprinklers, perforated pipes, and fixed nozzle sprinklers, all of which help distribute water evenly.

One crucial point to remember is that water can form a crust on the soil’s surface due to sun exposure. This crust should be gently broken with a light rake to ensure proper aeration.

Watering too little is ineffective, as moisture won't reach the roots, while overwatering can suffocate them, especially during germination. It's best to water deeply once a week rather than applying small amounts daily. In regions with limited water supply, collecting rainwater in small reservoirs covered with nets can be a sustainable alternative.

Blanching

Blanching is a technique used on certain plants to deprive their aerial parts, especially the leaves, of light. At a specific stage in their development, plants are covered with soil or wrapped in materials such as cardboard to shield them from sunlight. This process improves texture, flavor, and color in vegetables like celery and endives.

Supporting Plants with Stakes

While not always essential, plant supports (or tutors) are highly beneficial in a garden. Since only a few vegetables require support, placing stakes at the time of sowing or planting can prevent plants with weak stems from collapsing under the weight of their fruit. Some plants will naturally cling to nearby supports to stay upright.

For plants requiring assistance, horticulturists can tie them to stakes using soft materials like raffia to avoid damaging their stems. Climbing plants, such as peas and beans, can be guided with simple trellises or sticks to encourage upward growth.

Crop Rotation

Crop rotation involves growing different types of vegetables in the same garden area each year, ensuring that demanding crops do not deplete the soil’s nutrients. This method reduces the risk of soil-borne diseases and optimizes the land’s nutritional balance, as plants of the same family have similar needs.

For example, a section of the garden may be used to grow cabbage in the first year. The following year, legumes like peas and beans can be planted in the same space, while cabbage is relocated to a different sector. This practice prevents soil exhaustion and maintains fertility.

Here is an example of a four-year crop rotation plan:

• Sector 1: Radishes, onions, peas, lettuce, celery, beans, shallots, leeks, endives.
• Sector 2: Spinach, cabbage, collard greens, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, broccoli.
• Sector 3: Beetroot, turnips, Verona celery, scorzonera.
• Sector 4: Raspberries, asparagus, rhubarb, blackberries, aromatic herbs, currants, blueberries.

Each year, these plant groups rotate to a different section of the garden, ensuring balanced soil nutrition and preventing the build-up of pests and diseases.